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Aaron Bludorn ran New York kitchens for the celebrated French chef Daniel Boulud, so his Houston restaurant features exacting technique combined with American ideas and Gulf coast ingredients. His careful luxury menu meets a handsome dining room, first-rate service and a crack beverage program that have drawn well-heeled crowds from the early-pandemic launch date, no mean achievement.The repertoire shifts with the seasons, which means flounder Meunière with pecans in the fall; stuffed squash blossoms in late spring; spaghetti with Sungold tomatoes and herbed breadcrumbs in summer. At the midwinter holidays, a Beef Wellington with sauce Perigourdine brings honor to the genre.What to order: Short rib ravioli; roasted oysters with watercress and bacon; dry-aged beef burger with Redneck Cheddar; Tarte Flambée, a crackly-thin Alsatian-style flatbread with fromage blanc, bacon and Fresno chiles; Yuzu Sour cocktail.Tip: The Wednesday prime rib special is state-of-the art.Cuisine: Contemporary American

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